11/20/2011

Sunday Dinner

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Salsa di Parmigiano

Lasagne Bolognese
Sautéed Broccoli Rabe
Glazed Cipollini Onions 

Salted Chocolate Caramel Tart


The flavors of Thanksgiving food are wondrous.  I can hardly get enough of those classic flavors at Thanksgiving dinner and all throughout the following week.  Sometimes, though, the taste buds need a little shakeup during the endless parade of turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, etc.   This spread has just the right mojo to do the job.  The flavor is a welcome departure, an ethnic oasis in a sea of classic American eats.    


Since this dish is all about the cheese, buy the best cheese you can.  Good aged Parmigiano-Reggiano and Asiago cheeses can be found in many supermarkets nowadays.  You can adjust the heat from the red pepper flakes according to your own taste.   Whether it is eaten before dinner on Thanksgiving Day as an appetizer or used for a shot of variety on the weekend of leftovers,  this Salsa di Parmigiano packs massive flavor. And if there are any leftovers, this "salsa" puts a spin on a rather ordinary sandwich. It is delicious tossed with your favorite pasta for a quick weeknight dinner or simply spread on a ripe tomato.

11/18/2011

Dry Brined-High Heat Roast Turkey

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We are spending Thanksgiving this year at my parent's house and although my mother and father will be going back to basics (why mess with what is already good?) with the bird and all the trimmings, I make sure to make the whole nine yards just for leftovers when we get home for that late night turkey sandwich plate:)  I have shared appetizers, side dishes, breads, and dessert (all can be found on my recipe link at the top of the page), so now I would like to share with you our menu with any links to previous recipes and the recipe for the main event-- the TURKEY!

Thanksgiving 2011

Curried Chicken Log
(why my family insists on having chicken before turkey is beyond me)

Roast Turkey
Steamed White Rice
Giblet Gravy
Southern Green Beans
Braised Onions and Bacon


Now that I have you all good and hungry, it is time to get down to Tom, (Turkey that is).  This is hands down my favorite way to cook a turkey.  I use two methods to achieve the juiciest and best tasting turkey meat.  It also helps that I buy, in my opinion, the best bird.  I can't recommend enough the poultry products from Bell & Evans.  They are air chilled, antibiotic free, and organic with deep poultry flavor.  Yes, you will pay more, but the end result is worth it.  If Bell & Evans' products are not available to you, then find the freshest turkey in your area.  Steer clear of the frozen ones that have been injected with some sort of solution and extra fats.  They have too much white meat and too little flavor.  Now that I have given you some fundamentals for turkey purchasing, on to the method.

As I stated, I use two methods.  One is a dry brine and the other is a high heat roast.  I'll start with the dry brine.  Dry brining (rubbing kosher salt between the meat and the skin) balances the moisture in the bird and pulls the seasoning deep into the meat, not just on top of the skin.  I have used a wet brine before, but I feel that the dry brine leaves a better texture meat (firm, not mushy) that is still flavorful and very moist.  The high heat method is an easier and quicker way to roast a bird; no turing and no basting.  I can roast a 12-13 pound turkey in 1 1/2 hours!  For more on this method, you can find some good reading here, or check out the cookbook Roasting by Barbara Kafka.  Since you are roasting a turkey at 500º F, make sure your oven is clean.  A dirty oven means a lot of smoke, so turn the vents on.

To help you with the process, I have included a few step-by-steps below.  
Warning: Graphic turkey images.

Hellloooo!  Anybody in there?! (Sorry, couldn't help myself:)

First, choose a 12-15 pound fresh turkey.  Remove and reserve the giblets and neck for gravy, if making. Trim any excess fat from the cavity.


Carefully separate the skin from the meat. Separate the skin on each breast separately leaving the skin on the middle of the breast bone intact.  I like to use my fingers, but...


a chopstick can also help you get started.  Just make sure to press against the meat and not into the skin.  You do NOT want to break the skin.  Doing so will expose the meat to the high cooking temperature, which will result in dry meat.

Go on, get your hand in there; nothing to be afraid of.

Continue with the legs and thighs, wrapping your fingers around the leg and thigh meat to loosen the skin. It may look difficult, but once you start it becomes fairly easy.  Once the skin has been separated, sprinkle measured amounts (see recipe below) of kosher (see brand specific below) salt into the cavity, and rub into the breast, legs and thighs.  (Sorry, no picture.  Hard to do that and hold a camera at the same time:)


Wrap the turkey tightly in plastic wrap, place on a baking sheet, and refrigerate for 24-48 hours.  Remove the turkey from the refrigerator, unwrap, and thoroughly rinse of excess salt.  Gently run water in between the skin and meat several times to rinse the salt.  You don't want a salty bird or salty pan drippings.  Drain and completely dry the turkey inside and out with paper towels.  A dry skin will make for a crisp skin.  Wet skin will simply steam.


Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and place an ice bag or freezer pack on top.  Place the turkey breast side down on the ice.  Place another bag on the neck of the turkey, making sure that the ice is not touching any of the dark meat.  Since white meat cooks faster than dark meat, this method ensures that the dark meat is is cooked thoroughly without the breast meat being overdone and dried out.  

Meanwhile, adjust an oven rack to the lowest position and preheat the oven to 500º F (yes, that high).  Place a V-rack in a large, heavy-duty roasting pan.  Place the turkey in the V-rack breast side up.  Cover the tips of the wings and legs with small sheets of aluminum foil to prevent burning.  Roast the turkey until the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165º F (the temperature will continue to rise while resting).  Check the turkey after 30 minutes.  If the breast seems to be browning too quickly, lay a sheet of aluminum foil on top of the breast.  Remove the foil 30 minutes before the turkey is done.  A 12-pound bird will take about 1 hour 20 minutes.  A 15-pound bird will roast up to 2 hours.


Carefully drain the juices from the cavity of the bird into the roasting pan.  Reserve the juices for gravy and drizzling over unbaked dressing. (I yield almost 1 cup of juices and about 1/4 cup fat from a 12 1/2-pound turkey).  Transfer the turkey to a cutting board; lightly tent with aluminum foil and rest for at least 20-30 minutes before carving.


You can certainly go for presentation points and present your beautifully browned bird atop a bed of greens and herbs for a final resting place on your holiday table before... 


carving the meat, which has been roasted to perfection!  The dark meat is completely cooked through and the white meat is still juicy and tender.  After all that work, I am ready for a sandwich:)

I almost forgot-- here is a great kitchen tip for reheating Thanksgiving leftovers (without the microwave).

11/17/2011

Homemade Green Bean Casserole (from scratch)

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Is there a dish more expected and roundly beloved at the holiday dinner table than green bean casserole? Other than the main event, I think not.  It has been years (like back in high school when Mom made it) since I have had this American staple, mainly due to the fact that I avoid canned condensed soups.  Yes, the cans are quick and convenient, but the positive qualities end about there.  Knowing that many of you (including family and friends) enjoy this dish, I thought it was high time to go homemade and put it back on the table.   
                   
I have one child that does not care for mushrooms. I have one child that does not care for green beans. I have one child that does not care for either.  However, all three children more than care for this dish.  In fact, they go back for more!!

First, the beans are blanched until tender.  I like mine a bit more on the tender side, but cook yours according to your own texture preference.  It will also depend on the type of bean.  I like to use thin haricot verts, but use what you can find and blanch them until desired tenderness.  (Take a bite to be sure).  Once baked, the texture will not change much, the beans just absorb some of the good sauce flavor.  Speaking of sauce, it starts with a bit of butter (always good) and diced mushrooms.  I add shallots for a mild onion flavor and a clove more of garlic.  Flour, chicken stock, and cream are added to make a thick sauce.  To take the flavor and creaminess to another level, I add a bit of Gruyère cheese (an aged white Cheddar is tasty, too) and a splash of sherry.  Married with the mushrooms, shallots, and cream, it is a classic combo of flavors.   

As far as the topping, it is a blend of old vs. new.  A few cups full of those french-fried onions for nostalgia purposes along with the addition of Panko crumbs makes for a crunchy and pick-worthy topping that adds that loved texture and flavor.


After all that, there is still more. This dish can be made ahead of time-- bonus for the holidays!  The topping can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, then combined with the fried onions just before cooking.  Once the beans and sauce have cooled separately, they can be combined.  Transfer the mixture to the baking dish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.  To serve, remove the plastic wrap and cover with foil.  Heat the the casserole in a 425º F oven for 10 minutes.  Remove the foil, add the topping, then bake for another 10-15 or until browned and bubbling. (I have included this in the recipe below). 

I may have forgotten (o.k. avoided) this all-American side dish in the last several years, but I can honestly say that now, my family will never have a holiday without it!

Other sides dishes you might enjoy for Thanksgiving